Physical Soil Composition


Soil Composition

For soil to be at optimum levels for healthy plant performance, the physical, biological and chemical compositions need to be in balance. Plants have different requirements, match the plant to the soil composition. Some plants are very forgiving of their soil, other are finicky guests requiring the finest five star hotel. You cannot change the basic composition of your soil with these soil amendment recommendations, but you can improve it to increase your plant selection and water conservation.

Physical Composition of Soil

Soil is composed of solids and spaces. Solids include soil minerals and organic matter; the spaces contain air and water. Ideally, the spaces should be composed of 50% air and 50% water. Soil tilth is good texture and drainage. Soil in good tilth holds water without becoming soggy and allows air to circulate to plant roots and soil organisms. Soil in good tilth allows roots to penetrate the soil easily and grow. Soil in good tilth is easy for gardeners to work.

Texture, structure and aggregation, density, drainage and water-holding capacity are important components of the physical characteristics of soil tilth. Gardeners can improve some of these characteristics, but not all.

Texture

Texture refers to the proportions of sand (large particles), silt (medium particles) and clay (very fine particles) in the soil. The particles are loose sedimentary mineral material from fine clay particles to grains of sand and aggregates. Many of the traditional garden plants we are most familiar prefer loam soil, rich in humus. Loam contains from 7% to 27% clay, 28% to 50% silt and less than 52% sand. This would be ideal.

There are twelve main textural classes or groupings: clay, sand, silt, loam, sandy clay, sandy clay loam, sandy loam, loamy sand, clay loam, silty clay, silty clay loam and silty loam. Any extreme textural class is undesirable.

Soil texture does not take organic matter into account, only the composition of clay, silt and sand in the soil. Adding organic matter does not change the texture of the soil. Only by adding huge quantities of sand, silt or clay would gardeners be able to change the soil texture -- and this is often not practical.

Caliche is defined as a crust or a succession of crusts of calcium carbonate that form within or on top of stony soil in arid and semi-arid regions and is often combined with clay. Caliche is lacking in organic matter. Its crusting tendencies often prohibit drainage.

Structure, Aggregation and Density

One of the keys to good soil tilth is soil structure -- the way the soil particles are grouped together. Particles grouped together form aggregates (crumbs or granules), blocky units, flattened units often called plates or in a vertical structure called columns or prisms, or unstructured.

Plants grow best in soil with good aggregate size, or crumb structure. This structure would be loose with adequate pore spaces for air and water circulation (capillary action). along with this, roots more easily penetrate the soil and the soil is better able to hold water and nutrients for the growth of the plants. Think of a good crumb structure as being similar to worm castings. If you've never seen worm castings, the castings are small, somewhat rounded and moist where you can readily see the individual castings or crumbs, but when squeezed in a ball, holds it's shape.

Heavy clay soil and sandy soil can both have good soil structure that crumbles easily. Heavy clay soils that do not crumb but form big clods that are difficult to break has poor soil structure. Just the same, sandy soil that does not hold together has poor structure.

Structure and aggregation is the physical quality that can be improved or destroyed, depending on management techniques. Good structure and aggregate formation is a result of biological activity. Humus plays an important role in aggregate formation and earthworms secrete the sticky gums that hold the particles together.

Adding organic matter to the soil loosens clay soil and helps bind sandy soil together through the actions of the soil organisms. Walking on or tilling wet soil compacts and destroys the soil aggregates and structure.

Drainage and Water Holding Capacity

The drainage quality of soil is equally important. Soil drainage is the rate and extent of water and air movement in the soil either across the surface or downward. Soil that is soggy or water logged means there is not enough air in the soil pores or spaces. Many plants cannot live in this environment. Likewise, soils that drain quickly leach water and nutrients out of the soil.

Drainage problems are caused by high water tables, collections points such as swales or areas flooded by roof runoff, compacted soils or hardpan. Sometimes the solution is installing a raised bed garden, planting in containers or channeling water away from the area. Breaking through the compacted soil or hard pan is necessary for roots to penetrate, or even double digging the area in your home garden. Adding organic matter, the inoculation and stimulation of beneficial microbes and earthworms and planting deep rooted plants that can breach hardpan provide more permanent solutions to the drainage issue.

Most high and medium water-use plants require average drainage, low water use plants require very good drainage. Tight compacted clay and caliche soils have poor drainage. If you have clay soil that forms cracks 1/8 inch wide or larger, most likely you have poor drainage.

Amendments v.s. Fertilizer

Soil amendments are added to the soil to improve the soil tilth and provide nutrients for soil organisms. A soil amendment is a material that is added to improve the organic content of the soil, feed the biological soil life, and improve the structure of the soil. Soil amendments are not immediately available to plants, but their addition to the soil, through the workings of soil organisms, makes the nutrients available to plants.

For initial amending, a good quality compost is recommended, usually compost cottonseed hulls, certified organic composted manure, composted leaf litter, and composted garden and grass clippings. Some other locally available organic soil amendments are cottonseed meal, horticultural molasses, corn meal and corn gluten meal, alfalfa meal, alfalfa pellets, and worm castings. Add these other amendments according to the recommendations on the bag, not inches of these amendments.

Inorganic amendments improve soil structure. Newer inorganic amendments on the market also have the ability to retain water and nutrients. When the term inorganic amendments is used, this is not a reference to synthetic chemicals. Organic amendments contain carbon atoms, inorganic amendments do not.

Fertilizer is a chemical or material applied primarily as a nutrient for your plant. This includes high analysis fertilizers (N-P-K analysis, that is nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) and synthetic chemicals. Fertilizer does not build the soil or the soil life, but because of its salt content aids in destroying soil structure.

Benefits of Organic Matter, Compost, & Humus

How much organic matter does your soil have? In Texas, organic content ranges from .5% to 3%, with the 3% in the most fertile regions of the state, not necessarily the Texas Panhandle. If you’ve not previously amended your soil with organic matter, you will be closer to the 1/2%. (Have your soil tested for organic content, Texas Plant and Soil Lab, www.txplant-soillab.com, 956-383-0739). I’ve been topdressing my turf since 1999, often twice a year with a ¾ inch layer of compost and had it tested in January, 2005. I dug out a slice down to about seven inches, about ½ wide, and 5 inches long and could plainly see how the compost had worked its way down to 5 ½ inches in 5 ½ years from gravity, machine and earthworm aeration. My lawn tested at 3.68% organic content. I was advised to keep topdressing my fescue turf. Unfortunately, I did not have my soil tested prior to topdressing, which would have given me a starting point to note improvement.

Amending with organic matter can also corrects some drainage issues. The main advantage to adding organic matter is to improve fertility, such as compost or humus. Fertility is closely related to the biological life of the soil. Humus is a form of organic matter that has undergone some degree of decomposition. Humus gets used up by plants over time and needs to be replenished. Humus improves soil in many ways:

  • Improves water retention (thereby making it more drought resistant).
  • When ample minerals and nutrients are available, plants require less water for their uptake.
  • Aids in better soil structure (by allowing air and water to circulate easier, and holds soil particles together better in a more desirable structure from the sticky gums secreted by microbes through the process of humus formation).
  • Promotes the growth of mycorrhizal fungi, the beneficial fungi that grow in decomposing matter.
  • Increases growth-promoting fungi, which help control diseases, root rot, and damping off fungi.
  • Earlier soil warming.
  • Better nutrient retention and long-term nutrient release.
  • Balances the pH of the soil (lowers alkalinity).
  • Recycles plant waste products, acts as a buffer to chemicals and reduces soil toxicity.

Inorganic Amendments

If you have tight compacted clay and caliche soil, you should add a mix of organic matter with one of the newer inorganic amendments. I recommend adding an inorganic amendment for heavy clay soil, such as Turface® (calcined clay), Tru-Grow® (expanded blue shale), Ecolite™ (zeolite) or Axis® (diatomaceous earth) and Profile™ for sandy soil. Expanded blue shale is also available from Soil Mender and is called natural expanded shale. These are a few of the better inorganic amendments that retain water and nutrients, in addition to creating more spaces for air and water.

Other inorganic amendments with much more limited ability to retain water and nutrients are crushed granite, granite and lava sand, greensand, glass sand, and finally, regular sand. If your clay soil develops cracks during summer droughts, please consider adding the inorganic as well as organic amendments.

 

 

 

Points of Interest

Basic Gardening Principles (Xeriscape Principles)

  1. Plan and design
  2. Analyze and amend the soil
  3. Create practical turf areas
  4. Efficient use of water
  5. Choose appropriate plants
  6. Use mulches
  7. Practice appropriate maintenance

Ecologically Friendly

  • Plant best adapted species
  • Plant in preferred season
  • Balance mineral content of soil
  • Build and maintain soil organic content—humus
  • Do not harm beneficial soil life
  • Consider insects and diseases as symptoms of a violation of one of the above guidelines.

Our Soil Conditions

  • Sandy or compacted clay or caliche
  • Alkaline soil pH, 7 – 8.5 pH
  • Deficient in organic matter
  • Saline or sodic soils
  • Hardpan conditions may be present

Two Ways to Garden

  • Using natives and adaptables with little or no amending
  • Increased amending of the soil for medium and high water-use plants

Caution!

Before digging to amend the soil or create new beds, consult with utility companies for the location of underground utility lines to avoid severing them.

Benefits of Organic Matter in the Soil

  • Improves water retention
  • Less water required when ample minerals and nutrients are present
  • Improves soil structure
  • Feeds & increases biological soil life
  • Earlier soil warming
  • Improves nutrient retention
  • Balances the pH of the soil
  • Buffers chemicals and reduces toxicity
  • Recycles waste products

Average Amendment Requirements

  • High water-use plants—6-12 inches of compost
  • Medium water-use plants—4-8 inches of compost
  • Low water-use plants—3 inches of compost

Organic Amendments for Initial Soil Amending

  • Composted cottonseed hulls
  • Composted leaf litter
  • Composted garden and grass clippings
  • Certified organic composted manure

A Few Other Organic Amendments (follow bag application guidelines)

  • Cottonseed meal
  • Alfalfa pellets and meal
  • Cocoa bean hulls
  • Corn meal and corn gluten meal
  • Horticultural molasses
  • Worm castings, bat guano
  • Fish emulsion, fish meal, kelp meal
  • Bone and blood meal

Inorganic Amendments for Increased Drainage, Water & Nutrient Retention

  • Turface® (calcined clay) for clay soil and Profile™ for sandy soil
  • Tru-Grow® (expanded blue shale)
  • Ecolite™ (zeolite)
  • Axis® (diatomaceous earth)

Other Inorganic Amendments

  • Crushed granite
  • Granite sand
  • Lava sand
  • Greensand
  • Glass sand
  • Regular sand (without the addition of lime)

The physical, biological and chemical compositions of soil needs to be in balance for healthy plant performance.

Physical Composition of Soil

  • Composed of 50% solids & 50 % spaces
  • Solids include sand, silt and clay & organic matter
  • Spaces include equal amounts of air and water

Biological Composition of Soil

  • Microorganisms-bacteria, fungi, mycorrhizal fungi, nematodes, mites, actinomycetes, springtails, protozoas (amoebas, ciliates and flagellates), etc.
  • Macro organisms include insects, earthworms, crustaceans, sowbugs, arachnids, moles, gophers, prairie dogs, etc.

Chemical Composition of Soil

  • Top four elements—Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen and Nitrogen
  • Macronutrients—Phosphorus, Sulphur, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium
  • Micronutrients or trace elements—Boron, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, Zinc and Chlorine
  • Neutral pH—6.3-6.8 is ideal for most plants

Overcoming Extreme Conditions Thru Soil Amending

  • Reduces compaction and helps in-soak of precipitation
  • Reduces alkalinity of soil
  • Increases the organic content of soil
  • Helps balances the mineral content of the soil
  • Buffers saline and toxic soil conditions
  • Lessens the amount of irrigation
  • Provides more water and nutrients for timely plant recovery when faced with windy conditions, hail damage and damage caused by rapid temperature shifts
  • Expanded palette of low water-use plants that are marginally cold hardy for our area with increased drainage.

Water Conservation Through Soil Amending

  • Increases in-soak of precipitation and irrigation—minimizes runoff
  • Holds water in the root zone longer—minimizes leaching
  • Increases the drainage ability of the soil
  • Less water is required for nutrient uptake with sufficient soil organic content

Suggested Reading

  • Dirt Doctor’s Guide to Organic Gardening, Howard Garrett, University of Texas Press, 1995
  • Gardening Success with Difficult Soils, Limestone, Alkaline Clay, and Caliche, Scott Ogden, Taylor Publishing company, 1992
  • Soil Biology Primer, published by the Soil and Water Conservation Society in cooperation with the USDA Resources Conservation Service, 2000
  • Soul of the Soil, Grace Gershuny, Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 4th Edition, 1999
  • Start With The Soil, Grace Gershuny, Rodale Press, 1993
  • The Garden-Ville Method, Lessons in Nature, Malcolm Beck, Published by Garden-Ville, Inc., 1998, recently revised
  • The Soil and Health, Sir Albert Howard, Devin-Adair Company, 1947, reprinted by Schocken Books, New York, 1972