Understanding and Amending Our Soil


The role of the gardener is in being a soil builder. The soil is the foundation of the garden. Soil tilth or health determines the health of the plants. If you have healthy soil, you’ll have healthy plants, barring an extreme weather event. Of the seven Basic Gardening Principles, properly implementing this principle will bring you the most success in the garden.

The Texas Panhandle region consists of a wide range of soil types from caliche, to clay to sandy soils of varying grades. Our soil is alkaline (7 to 8.5 on the pH scale). The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, 7 being neutral. Soil with the range of 0 to 6.9 are said to be acidic, alkaline soils range from 7.1 to 14). The ideal pH range is 6.5 – 6.8. Clay and caliche soil is often compacted, leaving us with poor air and water drainage. Sandy soil has too much drainage for most plants, lacking clay particles and organic matter to retain water and nutrients. Soil salinity is becoming an increasing problem due to excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers and irrigation. Our soils are naturally deficient in organic matter.

To determine your soil type and condition, have your soil tested. It is important to know what you are working with before you begin. County extension offices make available soil sample bags and instructions, or you may choose to use another soil lab (Texas Plant and Soil Lab, www.txplant-soillab.com, 956-383-0739), which also tests for organic content, in addition to the usual tests.

Two Remedies for Our Soil Conditions

There are two ways to garden in the Texas Panhandle region and you may decide to do one or both.

  1. Garden using natives and plants adapted to your soil. These are the plants to choose for a truly low maintenance, low water-use, and ecologically friendly garden.
  2. Amend the soil for the type of plants you wish to grow. Choose your favored medium and high water-use plants that meet our areas plant profile, with this exception of amended soil.

The first Basic Gardening Principle, Plan and Design, helps you to decide what kind of garden desires, design, style, and theory are in line with your personal gardening statement. You’ve outlined your plans and at least drawn a rough sketch of your landscape having drawn in structures, paths, turf areas, and beds. You have marked the areas according to high, medium and low water-use; you’ve divided your landscape into hydro-zones.

Before digging to amend soil or create new beds, consult with utility companies for the location of underground utilities to avoid severing them. Allow several days time for the utility companies to get back to you about the line locations.

Amending your soil for the type of plants is the critical factor in achieving a healthy, lower maintenance, lower water-use, and ecologically friendly garden. The extent to which you amend the soil depends on the type of plants you intend to grow. Adding humus (organic matter) to the soil will lower the soil pH, but it will not make our alkaline soil acidic. You will not change your basic soil composition (texture) of clay, sand or caliche, but you will improve it by adding organic matter.

As a general rule, plants that require high water-use are higher feeders and need the most compost/organic matter in the soil, 6 – 12 inches depending on existing soil quality. Medium water-use plants require a medium amount; 4 – 8 inches of compost/organic matter depending on existing soil quality, and low water-use plants require 2 - 6 inches, depending on soil quality. Caliches and sandy soils will require the higher amounts, depending on the extent of caliche and sand as a total component of the soil mix.

A mixture of composted plant and animal matter provides the widest range of nutrients and microbial life to the soil. Limit your use of composted manure to around three inches per year, and insure this is well blended into the top 8-12 inches of soil.

Amending for Native and Adaptables

For a truly low maintenance, low water-use, ecologically friendly garden, choose native and adaptable plants. Native plants and adaptables (plants that are native to other areas of the world with similar soil and climate conditions) will work in your soil, as it is. But they’ll look like what native plants look like unaided by the gardeners hand. In most cases, we desire a better look for our garden.

Minimal amending (up to 3 inches) for organic content and drainage is all that’s required to make them perform as worthy garden specimens. Many natives will thrive well with little additional amending for organic content in clay soil. Do not over amend with organic matter. Low water-use plants require good to sharp drainage. Some amending with inorganic materials may be needed for sharp drainage. Some dry land plants cannot live in a rich soil and will die.

Match your plants to their specific soil requirements, i.e. plants that require sandy conditions in sandy soil, plants that require clay soil in clay soil. A number of plants will live in caliche soil—few require it.

Amending for Medium and High Water-Use Plants

Most people are more familiar with medium and high water use plants, those that are more at home in the Midwest, East Coast, South, Pacific Northwest or England. Simply, it is because many gardeners in our region emigrated from those areas and that is what has been shipped to our nurseries and home improvement centers, up until recently. Not that there is anything wrong with them, for those areas. Some are old-fashioned plants, at least old favorites. Many are constantly touted in national magazines and garden TV programs. Only in rare moments of delight are we treated to the glories of plants that create a sense of place for our regional gardens.

It is only within the last decade that Southwest, adaptables and native plants have been introduced into the nursery trade, and slowly, I might add. It is still difficult to find the wide selection we should have.

High water-use plants are higher feeders and need the most compost/organic matter in the soil, 6 – 12 inches depending on existing soil quality. Medium water use plants require a medium amount, 4 – 8 inches of compost/organic matter depending on existing soil quality. High and medium water-use plants generally require average drainage. Adding the organic matter to soil will accomplish better drainage in heavy clay soil as well. However, organic matter needs to be replenished. It is helpful to add a new style inorganic amendment to help retain water and nutrients. The inorganic amendment should not need replenishment.

A mixture of composted plant and animal matter provides the widest range of nutrients and microbial life to the soil. Limit your use of composted manure to around three inches per year, and insure this is well blended into the top 8-12 inches of soil.

It is more difficult to easily grow high and medium water-use plants in caliche soil. Caliche soil is very poor and takes a great deal of amending to grow the traditional English garden plants. If you have caliche soil, consider gardening in raised beds up to 12 inches deep, filled with good quality topsoil and organic matter.

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Points of Interest

Basic Gardening Principles (Xeriscape Principles)

  1. Plan and design
  2. Analyze and amend the soil
  3. Create practical turf areas
  4. Efficient use of water
  5. Choose appropriate plants
  6. Use mulches
  7. Practice appropriate maintenance

Ecologically Friendly

  • Plant best adapted species
  • Plant in preferred season
  • Balance mineral content of soil
  • Build and maintain soil organic content—humus
  • Do not harm beneficial soil life
  • Consider insects and diseases as symptoms of a violation of one of the above guidelines.

Our Soil Conditions

  • Sandy or compacted clay or caliche
  • Alkaline soil pH, 7 – 8.5 pH
  • Deficient in organic matter
  • Saline or sodic soils
  • Hardpan conditions may be present

Two Ways to Garden

  • Using natives and adaptables with little or no amending
  • Increased amending of the soil for medium and high water-use plants

Caution!

Before digging to amend the soil or create new beds, consult with utility companies for the location of underground utility lines to avoid severing them.

Benefits of Organic Matter in the Soil

  • Improves water retention
  • Less water required when ample minerals and nutrients are present
  • Improves soil structure
  • Feeds & increases biological soil life
  • Earlier soil warming
  • Improves nutrient retention
  • Balances the pH of the soil
  • Buffers chemicals and reduces toxicity
  • Recycles waste products

Average Amendment Requirements

  • High water-use plants—6-12 inches of compost
  • Medium water-use plants—4-8 inches of compost
  • Low water-use plants—3 inches of compost

Organic Amendments for Initial Soil Amending

  • Composted cottonseed hulls
  • Composted leaf litter
  • Composted garden and grass clippings
  • Certified organic composted manure

A Few Other Organic Amendments (follow bag application guidelines)

  • Cottonseed meal
  • Alfalfa pellets and meal
  • Cocoa bean hulls
  • Corn meal and corn gluten meal
  • Horticultural molasses
  • Worm castings, bat guano
  • Fish emulsion, fish meal, kelp meal
  • Bone and blood meal

Inorganic Amendments for Increased Drainage, Water & Nutrient Retention

  • Turface® (calcined clay) for clay soil and Profile™ for sandy soil
  • Tru-Grow® (expanded blue shale)
  • Ecolite™ (zeolite)
  • Axis® (diatomaceous earth)

Other Inorganic Amendments

  • Crushed granite
  • Granite sand
  • Lava sand
  • Greensand
  • Glass sand
  • Regular sand (without the addition of lime)

The physical, biological and chemical compositions of soil needs to be in balance for healthy plant performance.

Physical Composition of Soil

  • Composed of 50% solids & 50 % spaces
  • Solids include sand, silt and clay & organic matter
  • Spaces include equal amounts of air and water

Biological Composition of Soil

  • Microorganisms-bacteria, fungi, mycorrhizal fungi, nematodes, mites, actinomycetes, springtails, protozoas (amoebas, ciliates and flagellates), etc.
  • Macro organisms include insects, earthworms, crustaceans, sowbugs, arachnids, moles, gophers, prairie dogs, etc.

Chemical Composition of Soil

  • Top four elements—Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen and Nitrogen
  • Macronutrients—Phosphorus, Sulphur, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium
  • Micronutrients or trace elements—Boron, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, Zinc and Chlorine
  • Neutral pH—6.3-6.8 is ideal for most plants

Overcoming Extreme Conditions Thru Soil Amending

  • Reduces compaction and helps in-soak of precipitation
  • Reduces alkalinity of soil
  • Increases the organic content of soil
  • Helps balances the mineral content of the soil
  • Buffers saline and toxic soil conditions
  • Lessens the amount of irrigation
  • Provides more water and nutrients for timely plant recovery when faced with windy conditions, hail damage and damage caused by rapid temperature shifts
  • Expanded palette of low water-use plants that are marginally cold hardy for our area with increased drainage.

Water Conservation Through Soil Amending

  • Increases in-soak of precipitation and irrigation—minimizes runoff
  • Holds water in the root zone longer—minimizes leaching
  • Increases the drainage ability of the soil
  • Less water is required for nutrient uptake with sufficient soil organic content

Suggested Reading

  • Dirt Doctor’s Guide to Organic Gardening, Howard Garrett, University of Texas Press, 1995
  • Gardening Success with Difficult Soils, Limestone, Alkaline Clay, and Caliche, Scott Ogden, Taylor Publishing company, 1992
  • Soil Biology Primer, published by the Soil and Water Conservation Society in cooperation with the USDA Resources Conservation Service, 2000
  • Soul of the Soil, Grace Gershuny, Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 4th Edition, 1999
  • Start With The Soil, Grace Gershuny, Rodale Press, 1993
  • The Garden-Ville Method, Lessons in Nature, Malcolm Beck, Published by Garden-Ville, Inc., 1998, recently revised
  • The Soil and Health, Sir Albert Howard, Devin-Adair Company, 1947, reprinted by Schocken Books, New York, 1972